How to Make Soybean Paste Stew

A balance of broth and paste

Doenjang stew is one of the stews served most often in Korean homes. The ingredients are simple, but the result depends on the balance between broth and paste. Dissolve doenjang in plain water and you get saltiness without depth, so most cooks use a broth made from dried anchovies and kelp. Using the second water from rinsing rice gives a softer, slightly thicker broth that tames the paste's rough edge. Doenjang also varies greatly in saltiness and aroma between brands, so the same amount can give quite different results.

Ingredients (example for two)

These are typical ranges. You can swap vegetables for whatever is in the fridge, but mixing a firm one like potato with a soft one like zucchini gives good texture.

• 500 mL anchovy and kelp broth or rice-rinsing water
• 1.5 to 2 tbsp doenjang (adjust to its saltiness), 1/2 tsp gochujang (optional)
• One third of a Korean zucchini, half a potato, a quarter of an onion
• Half a block of tofu, some green onion, 1 green chili (optional)
• 1/2 tbsp minced garlic, a little chili flakes (optional)
• Mushrooms, clams or thinly sliced beef to taste

Method

First, dissolve the paste through a strainer or with a ladle so there are no lumps. Then add ingredients in order of how long they take to cook.

• Warm the broth and, while it is still lukewarm, press the doenjang through a strainer into it
• Add the potato, bring to a boil and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes
• Add zucchini, onion, mushrooms and garlic and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes
• Add tofu for 2 to 3 minutes, then the green onion and chili at the end
• Taste; add a little more paste if bland, or water and tofu if salty

When it is muddy or salty

The most common reasons for a heavy, muddy stew are too much paste or boiling it too long. Long boiling drives off doenjang's nutty aroma and leaves only the rough taste. Some cooks add most of the paste at the start for body and a small spoonful just before turning off the heat for aroma. If it is too salty, add a little water along with more tofu and potato. A bitter broth usually means the anchovies were boiled too long or their guts were not removed.

How add-ins change the stew

What you add changes the character of the stew quite a bit. Clams give a clean, savory broth, while thin slices of beef fried first add rich nuttiness. Spring greens such as shepherd's purse or wild chives make a fragrant seasonal version. Soak clams in salted water first to purge sand, and cook them only until they open so they stay tender. With beef, skim off the fat if a lot rises to the surface. Thinly sliced Korean radish added with the potato gives the broth a gentle sweetness.

Cooking it in Japan or abroad

Japanese miso is sweeter and milder than doenjang, so using it as is gives a much gentler stew. If you cannot find doenjang at a Korean grocer, use a dark miso and stir in a little gochujang for depth. Use regular zucchini in place of Korean zucchini and a small green chili instead of Korean hot peppers. If you have no anchovies, broth made from bonito flakes or kelp alone works well. Clams are fairly easy to find in supermarkets abroad.

Serving and side dishes

Doenjang stew is rich and savory, so it pairs well with light side dishes. A rolled omelet, some seasoned vegetables, laver and grilled fish make a complete table. It is also often made at the end of a grilled meat meal; since the meat fat adds richness, you can use slightly less paste. Leftover stew is good mixed into rice or eaten alongside lettuce or perilla leaf wraps. Cooked down with very little water, it becomes a thick paste called gangdoenjang, used for mixing with rice; it gets salty quickly, so add plenty of chopped vegetables and tofu and taste often.

Allergies and storage

Doenjang is made from soybeans, and some products also contain wheat or barley. If you have a soy or wheat allergy, always check the label. Anchovy broth and clams can be a problem for people with seafood allergies. Refrigerate leftovers as soon as they cool and reboil them thoroughly within a day or two. Stew with shellfish in particular should not be kept long. Opened doenjang keeps a long time in the fridge with the lid tightly closed, but keep its surface from drying out.